Where Can I Buy Backing Board for Art Prints
Mounting prints to backboard - best methods?
I am press with an HP 8750 to HP Premium Plus paper, then matting and framing the prints. So far, I've just attached the print to backboard (unremarkably a piece of 4 ply mat lath) with artists tape. Trouble, esp. with larger prints, is that the impress does not remain flat under the glass - information technology becomes wavy. What is the best manner to mountain the prints to backboard so that they lie truly flat without damaging them?
-
Jeff
Re: Mounting prints to backboard - best methods?
3M Spray-on fixative
Look in whatever hardware store for 3M spray-on fixative. It's cheap and 1 can volition practice hundreds of photos.
Put the photo face-down on a couple of open up sheets of newspaper (to grab the overspray) and put a light coating of fixative on the back of the print. Then carefully line upward the narrow edge of the impress with the backing fabric (we employ foam board at my house) and slowly roll the photo on to the backing. The thought is to not get whatsoever air bubbling under the photo, then it takes a niggling practice to get good at this stride.
When the photo is stuck to the backing utilize a clean roller (one that is non used for any other purpose; nosotros use a 4" stainless steel gluey roller hither that has never touched anything (including fingers and hands) except the front of a photo) to make certain at that place is good contact between the photo and the bankroll. Your intuition well tell y'all to not touch the front of the photo. Fearfulness non - if y'all are careful with the roller yous'll exercise no impairment.
We've got nigh 200 photos hung in our house and my wife used this technique on all of them. Information technology goes pretty quick after you've done the commencement few.
--
Birk Binnard
http://www.birkbinnard.com/photography
MRogers • Regular Fellow member • Posts: 245
Re: Moving picture frames mounting info webpage
http://www.framedestination.com/picture_frame_mounting.html
Cheers,
Mark
JeffB007 wrote:
I am press with an HP 8750 to HP Premium Plus newspaper, then matting
and framing the prints. And then far, I've just attached the print to
backboard (commonly a slice of 4 ply mat board) with artists tape.
Trouble, esp. with larger prints, is that the impress does non remain
flat nether the glass - it becomes wavy. What is the best mode to
mount the prints to backboard so that they lie truly apartment without
dissentious them?
Jeff
Hither's everything yous demand to know
Beginning your pedagogy here by learning about the "hinging" technique:
http://www.framedestination.com/picture_frame_mounting.html
There's really only one way to do archival mounting, and that'southward a technique called hinging. And you must use archival quality (acrid-free) hinging tissue. You must mount the print at only 2 points and substantially allow it hang from those two points (hinges). If you attach at multiple points (superlative and bottom, for case -- or the completely stupid technique of using spray adhesive), you are guaranteed a crappy result considering the thick mount lath and the impress react to changes in humidity at unlike rates.
I use Lineco Self-Agglutinative Linen Tape (Lin-533-1055) to attach the window mat to the backer board. So I utilise Lineco Self-Adhesive Hinging Tissue (Lin-533-1055) to mount the print to the backer lath at two points.
See those products here:
http://framingsupplies.com/ToolsTapesGlues/ToolsTapesGlues.htm
I cut all my own mats but take my wooden frames made to order with Acrylite UV glazing (no more than real glass). I've NEVER Ever had a print buckle.
To concur the assembled mats and print in place in a woods frame, you apply a Fletcher FrameMaster gun and framer's points:
http://framingsupplies.com/Fletcher/FletcherPointDriver.htm
Then you apply a layer of Scotch ATG Gold #908 acid gratis agglutinative transfer tape (Non #924) effectually the rear edge of the frame:
http://framingsupplies.com/3M/3MATGTape.htm
You employ a 3M ATG 700 gun (the yellow one) to practise this:
http://framingsupplies.com/3M/TapeDispenserGuns.htm
Finally, you attach a sheet of backing paper to the agglutinative transfer tape you've but laid down. I use the black paper shown hither:
http://framingsupplies.com/BackingPapersandPlasticBags.htm
And I trim it using the trimmer knife shown at the top correct of that same Spider web page.
And your wood frame hangers are here:
http://framingsupplies.com/FrameHangers.htm
Followed by the hanging wire:
http://framingsupplies.com/HangingWire.htm
By the way, if you have not bothered to spend the extra money for archival quality acid-free mats, backer board, and backing paper, you lot can ignore everything I've said, because y'all'll just be wasting your fourth dimension. If you're serious about this, you must use archival quality materials everywhere.
Good luck to you!
Canon EOS 5D Marking 2 Catechism EOS 5D Mark IV Epson Stylus Pro 3880 +3 more than
Eric Chan • Senior Member • Posts: two,800
Re: Here's everything y'all need to know
I've NEVER EVER had a print buckle.
And so I suspect that either (one) you use extremely thick matte newspaper for your prints, (2) live in an area where the humidity doesn't fluctuate too much, or (3) mount relatively modest prints (east.chiliad., letter of the alphabet-size), or some combination of these.
Hither in the Boston summer, the humidity fluctuates like crazy. It wreaks havoc with hinge-mounted prints when the environment isn't strictly controlled. In air-conditioned and humidity-controlled galleries, peradventure less of an result. But otherwise, wait to see a print buckle or become "ripply" or "wavy" within a week or two, unless an extremely thick or potent paper is used. This is true regardless of the presence of acrylic/drinking glass ...
In the past, I've hinge-mounted all of my work using nearly exactly the methods described to a higher place, but to no avail. Within a few weeks, the presentation ends up existence sloppy because of the ripples.
The only way I know to go along the prints flat is to dry-mount or common cold-mount them. A conservationist might object, but my betoken of view is that I'd rather enjoy a well-presented but perhaps less archival print for a shorter flow of time instead of enjoying a poorly-presented, more than archival print for no time at all ...
Re: Here's everything you lot need to know
Eric Chan wrote:
I've NEVER EVER had a impress buckle.
And then I suspect that either (1) you use extremely thick matte paper
for your prints, (2) alive in an expanse where the humidity doesn't
fluctuate too much, or (3) mount relatively pocket-size prints (due east.g.,
alphabetic character-size), or some combination of these.Here in the Boston summer, the humidity fluctuates similar crazy. It
wreaks havoc with hinge-mounted prints when the environment isn't
strictly controlled.
Hi Eric,
I can't imagine that your Boston (or Mass. Ave. Cambridge) summer humidity is a whole lot different from my Framingham-area humidty about 20 miles west of you lot. In fact, I suspect they are identical.
And sure, I use elevation-quality newspaper, such as HP Hahnemuhle Smooth Fine Fine art which weighs in at 265 gsm. But even with a middling paper such as Epson Enhanced Matte at 250 gsm (or whatever dizzy name it's going by this week), I've never had a problem. And my prints are not pocket-size; I print much of my work (on my HP Z3100) at an paradigm size of 14.vi" 10 22" or at 22" x 33" (both a 1:1.5 attribute ratio) on 24"-wide curl newspaper leaving a white border 1" wide all around to hide under the window mat. I cutting an viii-ply window mat with a four" border all around.
Of course, I don't mount prints equally soon as they come off the printer. Just as one should stack and get out forest flooring in a room for a couple of weeks to acclimatize before installing, I lay my prints flat for two weeks before mounting.
Canon EOS 5D Mark II Catechism EOS 5D Mark IV Epson Stylus Pro 3880 +3 more
Re: Mounting prints to backboard - best methods?
I have been using Studiotac from Neilsen, this is acid free and works fast and like shooting fish in a barrel. This product should be bachelor in any fine art supply store, in Atlanta I get mine at Binders Art Supply. Hither's a link to the store http://www.bindersart.com/
regards
Tom Monego • Senior Member • Posts: ii,944
Re: Hither'due south everything you need to know
Ive been using linen tape for years, most prints mounted twenty-thirty miles southward of Boston, I take ane Ciba I mounted 20+ years agone that has wrinkled, time to reprint information technology. I accept quite a few others that are fine.
It is going to be interesting, I'thou in Vermont now and the summertime has been wet, I take just finished some prints that will be going from my non airconditioned business firm to an air conditioned surroundings, I'grand just goint to hinge the tops of the 16x24 prints. Have to discover a decent acrylic supplier here, Hanover NH, White River Junction VT surface area.
Tom
Sue2404 • Contributing Member • Posts: 626
Re: Mounting prints to backboard - all-time methods?
I haven't establish the answer yet but have discovered that spray-on fixative is non good - even those acid-gratuitous, special photograph-mount varieties. Last summer in all the heat (unlike this summertime when we're flooded) I had a near-disaster when the prints done for an exhibition all 'slipped'.
--
Sue
http://www.suewilson.co.uk
'The beauty is in the walking; we are betrayed past destinations.' Gwyn Thomas
Panasonic Lumix DMC-LX3 Nikon D200 Nikon D750
Re: Mounting prints to backboard - best methods?
if I need a full adhesive bond to backing baord I apply 3M PMA agglutinative - http://www.lionpic.co.britain/index.php?sess_id=jjzf24r8rwr685ltuzu5ipl1egt3yps7&way=product_info&productid=388 .
I've never however had a trouble with it and observe information technology gives excellent results without spraying.
For mounting sail to backboard I've been experimenting with a professional heavy-weight sheet wall-newspaper adhesive - to my surprise it gives starting time rate results!
Sony RX10 Four Olympus OM-D E-M10 4 Olympus M.Zuiko Digital ED 40-150mm F4-5.6 R
Eric Chan • Senior Member • Posts: 2,800
Re: Here's everything you lot demand to know
Very interesting, DotCom Editor. I had no idea that nosotros were so close geographically, then clearly climate differences between your identify and my place shouldn't exist a factor hither! Do yous exercise anything special with regards to letting a print "residual" after information technology comes off the printer? Do you lot just put it in a box or desk drawer and let it sit? Or do yous sandwich it between sheets of plain paper or tissue, etc.?
Re: Here'south everything you need to know
Eric Chan wrote:
Very interesting, DotCom Editor. I had no thought that nosotros were so close
geographically, then conspicuously climate differences between your place and
my place shouldn't exist a factor here! Do you do anything special with
regards to letting a impress "residuum" subsequently information technology comes off the printer? Do
y'all only put information technology in a box or desk drawer and allow it sit? Or do you
sandwich it betwixt sheets of manifestly paper or tissue, etc.?
DotCom Editor replies:
Eric, I don't practice anything special. I have lots of room here, and then I lay prints out on a couple of tables, on the living room carpeting, on open up wire shelves, etc. I do not place them in an enclosure or sandwich between paper or tissue, because I want outgassing to occur unhindered. I think, too, that the very lightweight Lineco Hinging tissue has enough "requite" to information technology that the print can motion on its own, if necessary. So, as I noted, fifty-fifty my large 22" x 33" prints (from my Canon 20D) are swivel-mounted at just two points along the elevation and otherwise hang costless betwixt the window mat and the backer board.
BTW, though I do not own an Epson 3800, the amount of materials and depth of info you've made available is very impressive.
Canon EOS 5D Mark Two Canon EOS 5D Mark 4 Epson Stylus Pro 3880 +three more than
BeachnCruz • Senior Member • Posts: 2,034
I suggest Eric pay a visit to DotCom Editor.....
You lot both might take an enjoyable exchange of photo print stories and the visit could give Eric the opportunity to run across what the "truth is in the eyes of the beholder" method results are..... It might be interesting to compare each other'due south quality control levels and rating arrangement of framing results.
tony brown • Veteran Member • Posts: 4,370
Re: Mounting prints to backboard - all-time methods?
No 'expert' but enough of experience.......
When mounting prints to an adhesive backboard, whether spray-on or pre-coated, I constitute it necessary to bring both the backboard and the print into the same room for a day or and then to allow both to accept the same humidity expansion Before sticking them together.
Prior to that, I used to continue the backboard in an unheated room at the northward side of the house while my workroom was sunlit and on the south side. Yet much I permit the impress 'dry' and stabilise, they ever rose in patches after mounting. I assume the backboard was shrinking as it came to the same humidity. I was using a pre-coated photomounting backboard.
When allowed to dry out with the mount for a day or and so after printing but before mounting, the trouble vanished birthday.
Thank you, Tony.
MDSamurai • Regular Member • Posts: 101
Re: Mounting prints to backboard - all-time methods?
Just for my threads...demand to know this!
OP JeffB007 • New Member • Posts: nine
Re: Mounting prints to backboard - best methods?
Thanks to all for your suggestions and methods. Having read them, I'one thousand wondering if part of my problem is that HP Premium Plus isn't heavy enough or stiff enough to just hang.
I'm too not certain what to make of the "archival" issue. I'm using vivera inks which are projected to last 80 years or more and a newspaper that might last fifty-fifty longer. I don't want to add a product to the mix that volition wreck all that (the outset prints I made, on an early on Epson inkjet, blackness turned green later on just a few months), but if I employ a production that results in a framed print that will only final, say, 60 years instead of lxxx, I'yard not sure that will matter (at least, past so, I certainly won't intendance!). On the other paw, I exercise want to produce piece of work that volition last decades rather than months.
My concern about 3M adhesive is how it might bear on ink or paper over fourth dimension.
The dry-mounting I am familiar with uses estrus - what does that practise to ink/paper?
Someone mentioned a cold dry-mounting process - can anyone tell me more near that?
-
Jeff
Re: Mounting prints to backboard - all-time methods?
3M PMA is sometimes described equally a cold-mountain adhesive.
It comes in a roll with the agglutinative practical to ane surface of a release film.
To apply information technology you lay the print face up downward on a clean, safety surface. Scroll out sufficient PMA to simply overlap the edges of the print and apply the adhesive side to the back surface of the impress. Roller it flat (I use an 8" rubber roller) so use the plastic squegee supplied to firmly bond the adhesive.
You so peel off the release film, lift the print and position it onto the base of operations lath (don't apply pressure level until you have it correctly placed and it is "Repositionable). Once in place, put a protective sheet over the impress surface (the pack comes with a non-stick film just I have constitute it can occasionally transfer a scrap of adhesive to the front of a print - and so I use a clean sheet of newspaper each fourth dimension.
Roller it flat working from the centre outwards then duster to finish.
I've never had bubbling or motility of the print and at that place is no sign of "bleed though" with the Premium Pus photograph or any of the other papers I have used information technology with.
I'chiliad currently using information technology for a set of exhibition prints mounted on MDF and information technology works beautifully there too.
Once you lot accept the technique it takes less fourth dimension to exercise than information technology does to describe!
Sony RX10 4 Olympus OM-D E-M10 IV Olympus M.Zuiko Digital ED 40-150mm F4-v.6 R
JulesJ • Forum Pro • Posts: 45,680
Re: Here'south everything you need to know
Dotcom, you write most elequently, But your reply in no way addresses the OP question which was how to overcome the wavyness of the print afterwards final matting and framing. We mount with water based Neschen double sides sheet which is archival and overcomes the prints becoming wavy, but for a few extremely expensive, signed prints that we have nerveless over the years from our favourite photographers, we have 'hung' the prints rather than mount them. but tey have all become slightly wavy to one extent or another. Information technology'southward not a disaster but they are definately not flat. I would also disagree well-nigh there just beeing 2 hangers. Three or four are possible too.
Jules
DotCom Editor wrote:
Start your education here by learning about the "hinging" technique:
http://www.framedestination.com/picture_frame_mounting.htmlIn that location'southward really but ane way to do archival mounting, and that's a
technique chosen hinging. And you must use archival quality
(acid-free) hinging tissue. You must mount the print at just ii
points and essentially permit it hang from those 2 points (hinges). If
you adhere at multiple points (meridian and lesser, for example -- or the
completely stupid technique of using spray adhesive), you are
guaranteed a crappy upshot considering the thick mount lath and the
print react to changes in humidity at dissimilar rates.I apply Lineco Cocky-Adhesive Linen Record (Lin-533-1055) to attach the
window mat to the backer board. Then I use Lineco Self-Adhesive
Hinging Tissue (Lin-533-1055) to mount the impress to the backer board
at 2 points.
See those products hither:
http://framingsupplies.com/ToolsTapesGlues/ToolsTapesGlues.htmI cut all my ain mats but have my wooden frames fabricated to order with
Acrylite UV glazing (no more real glass). I've NEVER EVER had a print
buckle.To agree the assembled mats and print in identify in a wood frame, you
use a Fletcher FrameMaster gun and framer's points:
http://framingsupplies.com/Fletcher/FletcherPointDriver.htmAnd then you apply a layer of Scotch ATG Gilded #908 acid free adhesive
transfer tape (Not #924) around the rear border of the frame:
http://framingsupplies.com/3M/3MATGTape.htmY'all use a 3M ATG 700 gun (the yellow one) to practise this:
http://framingsupplies.com/3M/TapeDispenserGuns.htmFinally, you attach a sail of bankroll newspaper to the adhesive transfer
tape yous've simply laid down. I use the black paper shown hither:
http://framingsupplies.com/BackingPapersandPlasticBags.htm
And I trim information technology using the trimmer pocketknife shown at the top correct of that
same Web page.And your woods frame hangers are hither:
http://framingsupplies.com/FrameHangers.htmFollowed by the hanging wire:
http://framingsupplies.com/HangingWire.htmBy the way, if you have not bothered to spend the extra money for
archival quality acrid-free mats, capitalist board, and backing paper, you
can ignore everything I've said, because you'll simply be wasting your
fourth dimension. If you're serious well-nigh this, you must use archival quality
materials everywhere.Good luck to you!
-- hide signature --
Black moles do non destroy information.
JulesJ • Forum Pro • Posts: 45,680
Re: Mounting prints to backboard - best methods?
We use the aforementioned basic method below but with the Neschen product. Also rather than hand rolling we use a professional 'twin' roller like a mangle with a handle. This is adjustable for nthe thickness of what you are mounting. First you atatch i side of the Neschen to the archival carte du jour and so strip back the get-go half inch of the Neschen d/sided and attatch the very top edge of the print. You lot then showtime rolling the whole lot through the press and pull the plastic covering of the Neschen off as the print and card become through the press. I achieve an splendid mounting this manner, the pressure being enormous. Ane never gets bubbles. We take been doing this for years with non 1 print back after thousands of mounts. Nosotros would never muck about with sprays.
Jules
Brian Wadie wrote:
3M PMA is sometimes described equally a common cold-mount adhesive.
It comes in a roll with the agglutinative applied to one surface of a
release film.To apply it you lay the impress confront down on a clean, rubber surface.
Scroll out sufficient PMA to just overlap the edges of the print and
apply the adhesive side to the dorsum surface of the print. Roller information technology
apartment (I employ an 8" rubber roller) so use the plastic squegee
supplied to firmly bail the adhesive.Yous then pare off the release pic, lift the print and position it
onto the base board (don't employ force per unit area until you accept it correctly
placed and information technology is "Repositionable). Once in place, put a protective
canvass over the print surface (the pack comes with a non-stick flick
but I accept plant it can occasionally transfer a fleck of agglutinative to
the front of a print - then I use a make clean sheet of newspaper each time.Roller it flat working from the middle outwards then squeegee to finish.
I've never had bubbling or movement of the print and in that location is no sign
of "drain though" with the Premium Pus photograph or any of the other
papers I accept used it with.I'm currently using it for a set of exhibition prints mounted on MDF
and information technology works beautifully there too.Once you have the technique it takes less fourth dimension to practice than it does to
describe!
-- hide signature --
Blackness moles exercise not destroy information.
Source: https://www.dpreview.com/forums/thread/2041430
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